楓葉季節來京都，如果願意離開市中心遠一點，我很推薦來一次 大原三千院。
從京都市區過來，大概要花上一個小時。交通不算特別方便，但也正因為離城市遠了一點，到了大原之後，氣氛馬上就變了。
從大原巴士站走到三千院，大約還要再走 10 分鐘左右，沿途會經過小溪、山坡和一間接一間的小店。
我很喜歡這段路。
三千院附近有兩條溪流，叫做 呂川與律川。如果喜歡散步或健行，還可以沿著山路繼續往上走，往 音無瀑布的方向走走，會看到很不一樣的大原風景。
而且我每次走這條路，都會遇到一位阿婆在路邊賣東西。
我之前一直想不起來是什麼，後來終於想到了——紫蘇冰淇淋。
大原本來就很有名的是紫蘇，所以這個味道很有地方感。酸酸甜甜、帶一點紫蘇特有的香氣，在走了一段山路之後吃一支，真的很舒服。
我幾乎每次經過，都會買。
快走到三千院之前，參道開始熱鬧起來。
這裡有很多小商店，可以買到大原的紫蘇製品、漬物、當地農產，也有一些小吃和甜點。其實不用急著進寺院，慢慢走、慢慢吃，這段路本身就是大原旅行的一部分。
走進三千院之後，又突然安靜下來。
秋天最美的，是寺院裡的庭園。
坐在榻榻米上往外看，紅、橘、黃的楓葉包圍著綠色青苔，陽光從樹葉之間落下來。
這種景色，我反而不太想急著拍照。
先坐一下。
看久一點。
然後，再拿起相機。
🍁交通：
從京都站可以搭京都巴士 17 號前往大原，車程約 1 小時；抵達大原站後，再步行約 10 分鐘到三千院。
如果時間足夠，也可以把三千院、寶泉院、勝林院，以及沿著溪流前往音無瀑布安排在同一天。
Autumn in Kyoto is beautiful everywhere, but if you're willing to travel a little farther from the city center, Ohara Sanzen-in is absolutely worth the journey.
It takes roughly an hour to reach Ohara from central Kyoto, followed by about a ten-minute walk from the bus stop to Sanzen-in.
This walk is actually one of my favorite parts of visiting Ohara.
Two small rivers, Rogawa and Ritsugawa, flow around Sanzen-in, and if you enjoy walking or light hiking, you can continue farther into the hills toward Otonashi Waterfall.
And there's one thing I almost always stop for on the way.
I finally remembered what it was—shiso ice cream.
Ohara is famous for shiso, and the flavor feels very local: slightly sweet, slightly tangy, with that distinctive herbal fragrance. After walking uphill for a while, it tastes especially refreshing.
I almost always buy one when I pass by.
As you get closer to Sanzen-in, the approach becomes livelier, with small shops selling shiso products, pickles, local foods, snacks, and sweets.
There’s really no reason to rush.
The walk itself is already part of the Ohara experience.
And then you step inside Sanzen-in, and everything becomes quiet again.
In autumn, the gardens are especially beautiful.
Sitting on the tatami and looking outside, layers of red, orange, and yellow maple leaves surround the deep green moss.
Sometimes I don't want to take a picture immediately.
I just sit there for a while.
Look a little longer.
And only then, pick up my camera.
🍁 Travel Tips
From Kyoto Station, take Kyoto Bus No. 17 to Ohara. The ride takes about one hour, followed by roughly a ten-minute walk to Sanzen-in.
If you enjoy walking, leave enough time to explore the surrounding temples and continue along the rivers toward Otonashi Waterfall.
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